Hi Lovelies,

Today I thought I'd share some photos with you from the British Bag Makers Facebook group. Organised by Christine from Bags by Bags of Style, the ladies have been taking part in a mass Reversible Hobo sewing challenge. The rules were:

To make a HOBO bag using upcycled, preloved fabrics and hardware, showing the items before you cut them, be creative and above all, have fun!


The Winner (3 patterns from mrs-h.com):

Leanne Borland, making this fantastic patchwork denim Hobo!

Before:


After:




Entrants (1 pattern from mrs-h.com):

Helen


Jane A

Jane P


Judith


Kelly

Lorraine


Michele

Pam
 Susan


Lyndsey




I've loved seeing the creativity of these ladies - using whatever they can lay their hands on to create perfect Reversible Hobos! You can get the pattern here.


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Hello lovelies!

A little while ago I carved out some sewing time for me, and decided to make a bag for a very good friend who was visiting from America.

I don't have much spare time (like most of you I'm sure), so I chose a Reversible Hobo bag, as it's a quick make!


I chose not to make it reversible because I used such a light fabric for the lining.

I used Copper ends from Pat Bravo's Artisan collection for the lining and pockets, side accents and flap lining, and I used a Rose Gold faux leather from Taimar's Glitter on Etsy.

 I added a zip pocket, a slip pocket and a key hook to the lining of the bag, but I didn't add the zipped pocket to the outside as per the pattern. I didn't add the front catch to the lining either, because I wasn't making it reversible.
 I absolutely love this side accent with the hint of copper against the rose gold!
This bag is super blingy, and I hope my friend didn't find it too blingy! I used lovely shiny nickel hardware, rivets, triangular rings, swivel claps and a 'Handcrafted in Great Britain' bag label from Emmaline bags to finish the bag off.

Overall, I was completely in love with the bag and didn't want to give it to my friend.... I guess that's how it's meant to be when making bags as gifts for friends!

What was the last bag you made as a gift? I'd love to see it!

You can find the Reversible Hobo pattern in my store.

Hi lovelies, 

Today we've got a fabulous guest post by the lovely Amy from Virginia Girl Design. Amy has written about her hacks for the Reversible Hobo Bag, with changes to the main panel, the straps and the side accents. 


"This pattern hack requires all of the same fabric yardage, interfacing, zippers and notions that are called for in the original pattern and will finish with the same dimensions. There are a few cutting changes to be noted on the main panel, strap and side accent pieces. Also, you will not need to cut the handle (pattern piece), flap or front catch pieces. Please read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.



**************

Metal Hardware Required for Hack:

1 ½ inch rectangle rings x 2

1 ½ inch swivel clasps x 2

1 ½ inch D Rings x 2

6 mm Rivets x 10 along with Fray Check and setting tool

18 mm magnetic snap x 1

Handmade Metal Bag Label (optional)

Small amount of heavyweight stabilizer for backing magnetic snap and metal bag label

*************

Changes to the Main Panel

1) We’ll begin the hack by cutting the main panels to be 21 inches wide by 17 inches high.

2) Find the center of the panel. Cut in half along the center and sew panel right sides together with a ½ inch seam allowance. Don’t topstitch yet!

3) Press center seam open, complete corner cut outs as instructed in original pattern then fuse fleece interfacing to the back of the main panel. Cutting a slim rectangle a little larger than your zipper box on the back panel will greatly reduce bulk. Repeat for other panel.

4) Now that your fleece is fused to your main panels, top stitch on either side of your center seam then install the zipper on your back panel. Install the “Handmade” metal bag tag on the front panel. I installed mine 6 inches from the bottom and centered.

Here’s a link for a helpful video showing how to install metal bag labels:
http://emmalinebags.blogspot.ca/2016/04/how-to- attach-metal- bag-label- video.html

5) Sew the main panels together on one long edge per the pattern directions, press seam allowance and put aside for now.


Create the Strap

I was inspired to use this type of strap by an Emkie Designs pattern. Emma uses this method of strap construction on her Ingenious Tote and Hippo Hobo bags.

1) Cut your strap piece to be 3 inches wide by your desired length. The strap will be folded in half before being sewn so take that into consideration. I cut my strap 3 inches wide by 32 inches high.

2) Cut your fusible fleece strap interfacing 1 inch wide by half of your desired length. I cut mine to be 1 inch x 16 inches. Fuse fleece centered from right to left and bottom to top on your strap fabric.


3) Press the strap in half, open up then press both halves in again. You’ll end up with a 1 ½ inch wide by 32 (or your desired length) inch long strap piece.

4) Mark the following places on the wrong side of your strap: ½ inch from each end (these will be your seam allowances), the midpoint and quarter points.


5) Measure 1 ¼ inches from either side of your quarter points and make a mark. I like to use pins here.


6) Topstitch your seam allowance down at each quarter point from one 1 ¼ inch mark to the next on either side of the quarter point.

7) Slip both rectangle rings onto your strap and move them toward the center.

8) Sew the ½ inch seam allowances on the end of your strap together, right sides together forming a loop.


9) Press the seam allowances out then re-press the strap and turn right side out.

10) Move the rectangle rings to the quarter points, make sure everything is lined up and pressed smoothly, then topstitch down each long edge. Put strap aside for now.


Changes to the Side Accent Pieces and creating the Hardware Assembly

1) Cut your Side Accent Pieces 3 inches wide by 18 inches high. Cut your Side Accent interfacing to be 1 ½ inches wide by 18 inches high and fuse to the center of both pieces.

2) Fold accent piece in half wrong sides together, press, open back up and press each long edge back toward the center. You will now have a 1 ½ inch wide by 18 inch high piece. Topstitch down each side. Repeat with other accent piece.

3) Lay your accent pieces out on your cutting mat and cut an 8 inch section. You will end up with an 8 inch and 10 inch section for each accent piece. The 8 inch pieces will be the bottom of your hardware assembly and the 10 inch pieces will be the top.

4) Slip a D ring on the top of your 8 inch accent piece, fold the top raw edge down toward the back overlapping 1 ¼ inches of fabric on the back of the accent piece. Pin in place. Repeat for other side.
5) Take your 10 inch accent piece and place your swivel clasp on the bottom of the piece, again overlapping 1 ¼ inches of fabric on the back. Pin in place and repeat for other side.
6) Grab your strap and wrap the top end of your 10 inch accent piece through a rectangle ring making sure that nothing is twisted. This edge will fold down toward the swivel clasp by 2 ½ inches. Pin in place and repeat for other side.


7) At this point you will have a long hardware assembly that will be sewn directly onto your bag. Make sure everything fits and is lining up well. There should be no slack in the hardware. If there is, adjust your pins so the assembly is taut.

The bottom of your rectangle ring should be even with the top raw edge of the panel.


9) Check the other side of the assembly to make sure it mirrors your completed side.

10) Using your zipper foot, stitch closely to each piece of hardware securing it to the accent pieces and strap. Make sure the folded up bits of the accent pieces stay lined up on the underside.


11) Center one side of your hardware assembly on the sewn side of the bag. I find it helpful to use both pins and double sided tape here to make sure everything stays in place.

12) Make a mark with your air marker 1 inch below your rectangle ring on the accent assembly. Pin the side assembly not being sewn out of the way.

13) Sew with your regular foot over your previous topstitching, securing the accent assembly to the side of the bag. I like to turn my foot about ¼ of an inch below the zipper stitch we made earlier then head back down the other side of the bag. This will need to be done in sections.

14) When you get to the top section on each side, use the air mark you made earlier as your guide for where to turn your stitching. This will allow plenty of room for topstitching the finished bag.

15) Sew the other side of your bag right sides together and press seam allowance out.

16) Repeat sewing process for other side of the hardware assembly. Go slowly, and double check that everything stays lined up properly.


Add Rivets

1) Using your air marker mark the following measurements, centered on your hardware assembly and strap: 1 inch from the bottom cut out, ¼ inch below the line where you turned the stitching securing the D ring to the bottom of the accent assembly, ¼ of an inch above the turning stitch securing the swivel clasp to the bag, ¼ of an inch above the mark you made with the air marker noting where to turn the securing stitch toward the top of the bag and ¼ of an inch from the zipper stitch on the handle. Repeat for other side.

2) Punch holes and install rivets based on package directions. Use Fray Check on the holes prior to inserting the rivets.

Finish sewing the exterior of the bag per pattern instructions and put aside.

Add the magnetic snap to the interior of the bag 1 ½ inches below the center of each interior panel. See Samantha’s Blog post http://handmadebymrsh.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/how-to-fit-magnetic-snap.html for more detailed instructions.

Complete the construction of your bag following the original pattern instructions."



Thanks Amy for sharing your hacks! 

If you'd like to make your own Reversible hobo, you can find the pattern here in my store!

Hello lovelies,
Welcome to the final part of our Hobo bag Sew Along with Christine from Bags by Bags of Style!

You can find part 1 here, part 2 here, part 3 here, and if you haven't already bought the pattern, you can find it here.

Today we'll be finishing our bags!

34
we are going to make a slip pocket on the other lining panel......so you need to find your slip pocket panel. It's the one you ironed a half inch turnover on when we were prepping.
fold your panel in half with RST, and sew along the two open sides.....NOT THE ONE WITH THE TURNED EDGE, clip all of the corners and then turn in the right way and press well.....you will have one open side
37
in the same way as you made the corners on your outer panels, squeeze the lining panels together so the side and bottom seams match, clip and sew the corner....repeat on the other side..........you have now made your lining.
38
place your completed bag outer inside your completed bag lining with RST..........ensure your zippered pocket is at the same side as your flap on the outer panels........make sure the flap and side accent strips are tucked between the lining and outer parts. clip all around the top edge, make sure your side seams match. if they don't your lining will be wonky. Once you're happy stitch at 1/2" seam allowance all the way around the top, joining the lining and outer together.
To ensure you get a nice edge on your bag when you turn it, grade the top of your bag to reduce any bulk, I take it down to approx. 1/4"
39
time to birth your bag............pull the outer bag through the gap you left in your lining...............once you have everything through, push the lining back into the bag. I like to close the hole in my lining using my machine and topstitch as close to the join as I can.....but you can do it by hand if you're so inclined

40....
..roll the top of your bag between your thumb and finger to ensure the lining and outer are inside and outside................press gently..........clip all around the top to ensure the parts don't move.........then top stitch all the way around the top of the bag.
PRESS IT........the one thing I always forget to do before I take pictures

Well done, you have made yourself a Hobo bag.......learned a new way to create a slip pocket......I call that an 'Ellen pocket' as it's the way Ellen (From Chris W Designs) does her pockets. You have created a double welt zipper pocket, you have made boxed corners, some of you will have created an overlay............
You have leaned new skills that you can use again on other bags.....
WELL DONE EVERYONE!


Thanks for creating the sew along for us Christine, I can't wait to see everyone's bags!

Welcome back to our Reversible Hobo Bag Sew Along by Christine from Bags by Bags of Style!

You can find parts 1 & 2 here, and you can buy the pattern here in my store.

Christine will be sewing the double welt pocket in this post, it is not in the pattern, but you can find the extra pattern pieces here, ready to sew along.

Without further ado, it's over to Christine.

23......now for our double welt pocket....im breaking this down into stages to make it less intimidating........first take your two welt panels.........you ironed them in half earlier.........you're going to open them up, the panels will be right sides together, and sew a line of basting stitches down the crease you ironed in part 1......you are sewing the two panels together.....

24....
you now need to take your pocket facing panel (9 x 4) and mark a rectangle centrally on the panel (I know mine isn't central, just ignore that) the rectangle needs to be 7 inches by 1/2 inch.
25......
fold your pocket facing panel and one of your bag lining panels in half and finger press to show where the centre is.
27......
you can mark the lines that you can see cut on the first picture, or do it by eye (I do it by eye and forgot to take a picture of the lines..............cut along the centre of your rectangle, approx. 1 cm before the end of the rectangle angle you cut towards the corner of your stitching........DO NOT CUT THE STITCHING. I like to trim a little of the excess fabric away to reduce the bulk.........pull your pocket facing panel through the opening you have just made and press well.
28.....
turn your lining panel so it's face down........you will see the right side of your pocket facing panel........now apply a little glue around the edge of your pocket hole.
Take your welt panels (you already sewed them together and pressed them) and lay them over the pocket hole, try and ensure the join is central in the pocket hole.........I just lift the lining panel to check and adjust as necessary.........the front of your lining panel will look like the last photo...........don't worry that you can't get in there yet.......that bit's coming I promise
29.....
Now we are going to add the zipper. I always have a problem knowing where my pocket hole is as I've covered it up with the welt panels........so my tip......pop a pin through from the right side at the very ends of the welt panel so they are sticking out at the rear of your lining...........your pins will help you ensure the zip is in the correct place on the rear.........you can now see where the ends of the opening are so you can add your zipper in the correct place.
Add another row of glue along the rear of the welt panels to secure the zipper........then lay the zipper so the teeth are sitting over the join in the welt panels.........once you're happy you have everything in the correct place....REMOVE THE PINS.........
30......
Once you are happy that all of your parts are in the correct place and secure........turn the whole panel over, attach your zipper foot and sew around the outside of your opening, as close to the edge as you can. This will secure the welts and zipper in one go.
Once you have finished your stitching, take a seam ripper and carefully remove the basting stitches you did on the welt panels........don't poke about too far or you may catch your zipper.
You can now access your zipper............how accomplished do you feel now eh???

31......
So now we have a pocket hole, but no lining.....turn your lining panel over so you are looking at the rear of it......take your pocket lining panel (9 x 14) and lay it (right side down) with the shorter side over the top of the pocket facing panel.......they should match........you will need to fold the main lining panel out of the way to stitch the top of the pocket lining panel and the top of the pocket facing panel together.
32....
so now your pocket lining is attached at the top.........you need to fold the lining away from you and match the bottom of the pocket lining panel with the bottom of the pocket facing panel.....again fold the main lining panel out of the way so you can sew the two panels together.......you now have a pocket that's sewn at the top and the bottom...........I'm pretty sure you can guess where we go from here.

Thanks Christine! Pop your double welt zipped pockets to one side, next week we'll finish the pockets and lining, and your Hobo bags will be ready to go!

Welcome back to part two of our Reversible Hobo Bag Sew Along with Christine from Bags by Bags of Style!

You can find part one here, and don't forget to use your discount code if you haven't got the pattern yet!

We've already prepared our fabric, applied the interfacings, and we're ready to sew, so over to you Christine!

11.....
side accents and front catch in fabric........you have already folded them and pressed them, now you're going to open up that centre fold and fold it back on itself, so the right sides are together.........and sew a 1/4 in from the top right across.............clip both corners carefully.......if you do it too close you will end up with fraying .
Turn the strap back to the way it was and poke out the corner........press and top stitch right round............all three pieces should be done in the same way
12.......
Side accents and lower fastening strap in faux leather, Liz showed us how to do this at camp, I use a little glue to secure, then fold both sides into the centre and clip, using my Teflon foot and a long stitch length, top stitch along both edges, then I do a further row of stitching approx 1/3 inch in from the first row.
13......
strap............lay both pieces right sides together and clip, sew around leaving a gap of approx. 2 inches at the side......once you have done that, make sure you clip the corners of the top and bottom square ends and notch around the curves.......it will not sit properly if you don't do that....I know, I've tried. Turn it the right way, you may need to use a chopstick to push those corners through, then press well, turn in the seam allowance on the area you left opening so it's folded and flat........then topstitch all the way around.
Add your hardware.......fold over the little square end of the handle and secure either by adding a couple of lines of stitching, using rivets, or Chicago screws.
14......
flap.......lay right sides together and stitch using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. DO NOT SEW ACROSS THE TOP...........in the same way as you did for the strap you need to clip the corners and notch the curves.......turn the right way and roll the curve between your thumb and finger to make sure the seam is on the edge.....press and topstitch.....not along the top. Add your hardware in the same way you did for your strap.
15......
NOTE.......if you are using faux leather for your strap and/or flap you will not need fleece. If you are using FL on one side and fabric on the other, add fleece to the fabric only. If you are using very thick faux leather you may be better to cut away the seam allowance from the pieces and lay them wrong sides together and topstitch around the outside, you may need to colour the raw edges after you have done this.

16.......
add your hardware to the side accent straps and the front fastening strap......you can use rivets or a couple of rows of stitching to secure them.......
17........
now we are ready to start putting the bag together, first we add the flap and lower fixing strap, fold the front panel in half and finger press to mark the centre line, put the short strap centrally over your folded line, I add a little glue just to stop it slipping. Stitch over your existing stitching to secure it to the front panel.
For the flap fold the back panel and finger press to mark the centre, lay the flap right sides together with the outer panel, stitch at 1/4 inch to secure to the top of the bag.

18.....
put front and back bag panels right sides together and sew one side seam, open the bag and press the seam open.
19........
place your side accent strip centrally over the seam ensure that the bottom is level with the edge of the bag, you will have a small amount of strap overlapping the top of the bag, I use glue but DST would work equally as well to hold it in place, secure it by sewing over your existing stitching, do not go right to the top of the bag. I stitch to approx. 1.25 inches from the top of the bag. Sew the side seam the other side of the bag and press open the seam then repeat with the side accent ......I always use my machine as a free arm to do this as I find it easier, but it can be done flatbed too.
20.......
Last bit for today we are going to sew the boxed corners of our bag.........you can see the way the bottom sits in the first photo, you need to pinch the bottom so the bottom seam and the side seam meet, try and make sure that it's straight or your bag will have a wonky bottom.......none of us want one of those do we? Flatten out the seams so it's not too bulky........clip, and sew, I always do two rows of stitching close together for security. Repeat on the other side..........then turn your bag in the right way and push the bottom corners out......you have completed the outer part of your hobo.

Thanks Christine!

It's time for a break, we'll be back with more next week!